1988 – 1992
During this period Vivienne’s heros changed from punks and ragamuffins to ‘Tatler’ girls wearing clothes that parodied the upper class. A chance encounter inspired one of her most important and influential collections, the Harris Tweed collection of Autumn/Winter 1987.
“My whole idea for this collection was stolen from a little girl I saw on the tube one day. She couldn’t have been more than 14. She had a little plaited bun, a Harris Tweed jacket and a bag with a pair of ballet shoes in it. She looked so cool and composed standing there.”
Harris Tweed, AW 1987 – 88
- Tailored and childish look inspired by Royal Family continued.
- Inspiration: British fabrics, especially wool which had provided all the uniforms of the British Empire. Black velvet.
- 18th century corset.
- Fine twin sets now fashion.
Pagan I, SS 1988
Time Machine, AW 1988-89
Civilizade, SS 1989
Voyage to Cythera, AW 1989-90
- Inspiration: Watteau, Comedia del Arte and Ballets Russes.
- Tights worn without skirts. Inspiration: man who forgot his trousers.
Pagan V, SS1990
Portrait, AW 1990-91
- Inspiration: Oil painting – the bravura of texture and display of material wealth
- Wish to have the luxury of the whole range of fabric from linen underwear to fur (fake).
- Furniture represented designed by Boulle in the Wallace Collection.
- Chose a painting by Boucher, ‘Shepherd watching a Sleeping Shepherdess’, to represent the paintings themselves – photographic print.
- High platform shoes put the woman on a pedestal like she had stepped out of a painting.
Cut and Slash, SS 1991
- Slashed fabric – satin, cotton, denim.
- Inspiration: 16th century mania for cutting and pricking fabric which lasted for 200 years, apparently inspired by a battle.
Dressing Up, AW 1992-93
Salon, SS 1992
Always on Camera, AW 1992-93